What You Can Do to Control Erosion and Protect Your Property
Before and During Construction
|Plan construction activities during spring and summer, so that erosion control measures can be in place when the rain comes.|
|Examine your site carefully before building. Be aware of the slope, drainage patterns and soil types. Proper site design will help you avoid expensive stabilization work.|
|Preserve existing vegetation as much as possible. Limit grading and plant removal to the areas under current construction. (Vegetation will naturally curb erosion, improve the appearance and the value of your property, and reduce the cost of landscaping later.)|
|Use fencing to protect plants from fill material and traffic. If you have to pave near trees, do so with permeable asphalt or porous paving blocks.|
|Preserve the natural contours of the land and disturb the earth as little as possible. Limit the time in which graded areas are exposed.|
|Minimize the length and steepness of slopes by benching, terracing, or constructing diversion structures. Landscape benched areas to stabilize the slope an improve its appearance.|
|As soon as possible
after grading a site, plant vegetation on|
all areas that are not to be paved or otherwise covered.
|Control dust on graded
areas by sprinkling with water,|
restricting traffic to certain routes, and paving or graveling
access roads and driveways.
Grass provides the cheapest and most effective short-term erosion control. It grows quickly and covers the ground completely. To find the bet seed mixtures and plants for your area, check with your local nursery, the U.S. Department of Agriculture Soil Conservation Service, or the University of California Cooperative Extension.
Mulches hold soil moisture and provide ground protection from rain damage. They also provide a favorable environment for starting and growing plants. Easy-to-obtain mulches are grass clippings, leaves, sawdust, bark chips and straw. Straw mulch is nearly 100% effective when held in place by spraying with an organic glue or wood fiber (tackifiers), by punching it into the soil with a shovel or roller, or by tacking a netting over it. Commercial applications of wood fibers combined with various seeds and fertilizers (hydraulic mulching) are effective in stabilizing sloped areas. Hydraulic mulching with a tackifier should be done in two separate applications: the first composed of seed fertilizer and half the mulch, the second composed of the remaining mulch and tackifier. Commercial hydraulic mulch applicators - who also provider other erosion control services - are listed under "landscaping" in the phone book.
Mats of excelsior, jute netting and plastic sheets can be effective temporary covers, but they must be in contact with the soil and fastened securely to work effectively.
Roof drainage can be collected in barrels or storage containers or routed into lawns, planter boxes and gardens. Be sure to cover stored water so you don't collect mosquitoes, too. Excessive runoff should be directed away from your house. Too much water can damage trees and make foundations unstable.
Even with proper timing and planting, you may need to protect disturbed areas from rainfall until the plants have time to establish themselves. Or you may need permanent ways to transport water across your property so that it doesn't cause erosion. To keep water from carrying soil from your site and dumping it into nearby lots, streets, streams and channels, you need ways to reduce its volume and speed. Some examples of what you might use are:
|Riprap (rock lining) to protect channel banks from erosive water flow.|
|Sediment trap to stop runoff carrying sediment and trap the sediment.|
|Storm drain outlet protection to reduce the speed of water flowing from a pipe onto open ground or into a natural channel.|
|Diversion dike or perimeter dike to divert excess water to places where it can be disposed of properly.|
|Straw bale dike to stop and detain sediment from small unprotected areas (a short term measure)|